Cover photo courtesy Stephan Malette
If you’ve never made the trek to ski in Nelson, B.C., you wouldn’t be the first. Tucked deep in the Selkirk Mountains, only 45 miles from the U.S. border, it’s more of a hideaway than a destination. But for those in the know, that’s the way they like it. Strewn with old-growth forests, diamond peaks, and deep, consistent powder, what makes Nelson stand out is how little it stands out. It’s never been a place to boast, quietly carrying on as the most dependable and holistic ski experience in Interior British Columbia for generations.
Dubbed the Queen City of the Kootenays, Nelson was founded in 1886 during the late-19th century mining boom—when the hillsides above Kootenay Lake blossomed with Victorian architecture, and Chicago-inspired industrial brick façades lined the waterfront and downtown’s Baker Street. By the early 1900s, it was a little slice of mid-century America plunked in the depths of the Canadian frontier. And today it’s not much different.
Nelson remains a quizzical outpost of metropolitan sensibilities in the middle of enduring wilderness, wrapped in dense, evergreen forest. Full of galleries, artisan shops, and theaters, the town, the culture, and the skiing have remained relatively free from the tides of over-development. Today, it’s the gateway to the most enduringly authentic ski culture there is.
Off the Beaten Piste
Whitewater Ski Resort is just 25 minutes up the road from Nelson, and the biggest little ski hill in Canada. With 2,367 skiable acres and 40 feet of annual snowfall, it has the stats to stand on the world stage, but a small, grassroots vibe that keeps it grounded and track free. Here you’ll find kind locals, soft landings and pow days that last a week at a time. Visit during the annual Kootenay Coldsmoke Powderfest (Feb. 20-23) for an iconic taste of local ski culture. Or earn your turns in the abundance of easily accessed ski-touring terrain, where the uptracks have their own rhythm and you can claim a little piece of the mountain all your own.
Nelson and Kootenay Lake are also the cat-skiing capital of the world. Which makes perfect sense when you consider the deep, climate-resilient snowpack, and the enduring local tradition of backcountry. If you want to take your ambitions a step higher, you can also step into a helicopter, with multiple companies poised to bring you where alpine vistas consume the horizon and cedars the size of small buildings stretch out across endless empty glades.
All-day Après
With a history of hard work as the backbone of the region, locals know that good food is part of a good life, whether at the resort or in town. Whitewater’s kitchen has produced six award-winning cookbooks, and Nelson has more restaurants per capita than both San Francisco and Manhattan—almost all of them with their own Kootenay-infused take on global cuisine. But you can just as easily settle into the familiar comfort of a pub, or the all-night energy of the renowned music scene that draws performers and artists from around the world. Keep your legs in fine form for the mountain with a soak at Ainsworth Hot Springs, the best recovery nature offers.
As the most eclectic stop on the Powder Highway, you have to work a little harder to get here, but that’s what makes skiing Nelson and Kootenay Lake so special. Less than a three-hour drive from the Spokane International Airport in Washington, you can make your final approach by shuttle or car. A journey here will always need to be a little slower, and a bit more intentional—but that’s what makes it special.
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