Cover photo courtesy of Nelson Kootenay Lake Tourism
What’s more tiring, skiing, or hearing about skiing? Your wife’s been bragging about her Kootenay winter vacations for years … and winter’s here again. She keeps reminding you, “Last year it snowed two feet the week I went to Whitewater Mountain Resort!” Enough already. Next she’ll be on about how they kept the grassroots vibe even though they added a new lift in 2023, boosting to 3,247 skiable acres—and she still never crosses a track until noon on a powder day.
Then there was the year she decided to start ticking off her “bucket list” and go cat skiing. And then again the next year when she went heli-skiing, because there are more backcountry operations around Kootenay Lake than anywhere else in the world, and the terrain is “unmatched.” This winter she wants to try ski touring, and you just know it’s going to be the same endless gloating at the end of each day.
But that’s no reason to stay home. Spokane, along with its international airport, is only three hours from Nelson, and a winter vacation poses its own restorative effects, even if you’re not into skiing or snowboarding. Visiting the serene shores of Kootenay Lake is easier than getting to Mexico—plus, you won’t get a sunburn. Not to mention the Canadian peso is an all-time bargain right now. But what does a man of more discerning tastes do to keep occupied?
Ever been to a hot spring in the winter? It’s the quintessential Kootenay way to unwind: soaking in the contrasting benefits of hot and cold. Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort is just a short trip up the road from Nelson, with developed pools that are a natural delight, and rejuvenating waters that work magic to peel back big-city stresses.
A walking tour of Nelson is likewise especially storybook in winter, highlighted by Victorian architecture and dozens of curated murals. Getting around by foot is quick and quaint, offering time to escape into one of many warm independent bookstores, or dozens of cafés—many of which roast their own beans and are award winners. Locals here have coffee for blood.
But maybe breweries are more your thing. There are three in Nelson, and one up in picturesque Kaslo, just an hour up the road. The slow, winding drive along Kootenay Lake is mesmerizing in the winter, with views of snowcapped mountains reflecting off a glassy lake that never fully freezes. You can also take the world’s longest free ferry across the lake to Balfour, for an extra scenic cruise.
But if you don’t have a rental vehicle, because the frequent shuttles from Spokane are just as quick and easy and Nelson itself is decidedly walkable, you can still keep busy right in town. There are more restaurants per capita in the Queen City of the Kootenays (that’s Nelson) than even San Francisco and Manhattan. It’s a culinary scene that foodies around the world flock to, crammed into four ornate city blocks.
Only 30 minutes north of the Washington border, Nelson’s architecture is a throwback to the turn of the century: a mix of American-style Italianate brick façades reminiscent of old Seattle, and granite-blocked civic buildings with distinct Victorian influences. There are over 350 heritage buildings surrounding downtown’s Baker Street, all built between 1895 and 1924—edifices that make the town distinct in the Canadian Mountain West.
Like the stately Nelson Museum, Archives & Gallery, which will take you back to the frontier years, as will a visit to the S.S. Moyie Sternwheeler up in Kaslo: the oldest intact passenger vessel of its kind in the world. While you’re up there, Kaslo’s Langham Cultural Centre showcases contemporary and traditional exhibits year-round: a cosmopolitan amenity in an impossibly cute village framed by diamond peaks overlooking a placid lake.
Art’s also on tap all winter long at Nelson’s Oxygen Art Centre, as well as at a plethora of galleries and artisan studios. As the undisputed cultural capital of the Kootenays, there are always shows at the Capitol Theatre, featuring local and national talent, performing dance, theater and musicals. Music, by the way, pulses winterlong at venues like Bloom Nightclub and Spiritbar; Nelson is also a sleeper hub for electronic artists the world over.
But if you want to keep it simple, there are, of course, plenty of pubs and that Canadian staple, the good, old hockey game. The Nelson Leafs are a Junior A championship team that seldom disappoints. Which is perfectly in keeping with the area at large. Not everybody loves sliding on snow, and we get that—but everybody loves winning. The wife might have just bagged her best day on snow ever, but visit Nelson and Kootenay Lake along with her and it’s bragging rights for all.
Traveling to Nelson, BC, This Winter?
Why Not Take the Shuttle?
Skip the drive and hop on the Kootenay Charters shuttle servicing Nelson, Castlegar and Rossland direct from the Spokane Airport. For complete details on departure dates and times, just scan here. Book now at Kootenaycharters.com/spokanewintershuttle or reach out with questions at [email protected] or (250) 365-2871.
