89-year-old Galen Chamberlain turns the page on his final hike in Rich Landers’ classic “100 Hikes in the Inland Northwest” guidebook.
By Chris Maccini
Cover photo courtesy of Diane Delanoy
It was 29 years ago that Galen Chamberlain first picked up a copy of Rich Landers’ classic guidebook, “100 Hikes in the Inland Northwest.” At age 60, he’d just retired from a career in construction and was enrolled in a backpack school course through the Spokane Mountaineers. At the time, Chamberlain was far from an avid hiker.
“I did a lot of skiing and cross-country skiing, but I never walked any more than a hundred yards in my life if I could help it until their backpack school,” he says. “I remember when I got back to the trailhead after three days, I told one of the instructors, ‘I ain’t never gonna hike again.”
But while his feet and shoulders may have ached after that first hike, there was something that drew him back to the trail. Soon, he was hooked, and he set himself a goal to hike 500 miles per year. Chamberlain has kept track of every mile of every hike for nearly three decades, a total of more than 14,500 miles.
Over the years, Landers’ “100 Hikes” became a constant companion. Each time Chamberlain completed one of the hikes in the book, he checked it off, often making notes on the weather, trail conditions and his hiking companions. When he returned to a hike again, he added another mark. Some hikes, like nearby Mount Kit Carson in Mount Spokane State Park (Hike #21), he has done a whopping 96 times. But it wasn’t until many years of hiking that the idea occurred to Chamberlain to try to complete all 100 hikes. “I just started knocking ’em off,” he says. “And then after I got 50 or 60, I thought, hey, why not shoot for a hundred?”
The trails in “100 Hikes” are spread throughout Washington, Idaho, Montana, Oregon, and British Columbia. In addition to being an active outdoorsman, Chamberlain was also a pilot. He owned a small airplane, which allowed him to fly in and camp at remote airstrips, giving him easier access to some of the more remote hiking areas such as the Cabinet Mountains in Montana and the Eagle Cap Wilderness in Oregon. One by one, he checked them off in his increasingly tattered copy of the guidebook.
The 100th Hike Attempt to Mortar and Pestle Lakes
In the summer of 2018, Chamberlain and a group of friends set out to complete the final hike in the book, number 100: Mortar-Pestle Lakes. The hike is located in British Columbia’s St. Mary’s Provincial Park, a remote wilderness area northwest of Cranbrook, BC. As Landers’ description in “100 Hikes” puts it, “This little niche of wilderness is so far off the beaten track, it doesn’t even have an official trail in its 22,650 acres.” Landers describes a steep, sparsely marked “trail” over granite boulders and alpine larch, noting that the area was previously home to a logging operation and “there’s a good chance you will have to seek out the trail to some degree.” He rates the hike “moderately difficult” in the book.
When Chamberlain and his friends arrived in August of 2018, they knew there was wildfire activity in the area to contend with. The day before their scheduled hike, Chamberlain called BC Parks and asked about the trail’s status. They advised him to check the website in the morning to be sure the area was not restricted. Early the next day, everything looked clear. They packed up and started the drive to the trailhead under smoky skies. They’d driven less than 10 miles outside of Cranbrook when they were met with a blockade. Apparently, a new wildfire had started overnight, and no one had taken the time to update the website. There would be no hiking that day. The group turned around and headed home.
But Chamberlain was determined to complete the hike one day. This was the final hike he needed to complete his 100-hikes goal, after all. He decided his next attempt would be earlier in the summer to avoid wildfire danger. In 2019, he once again gathered a group of fellow hiking enthusiasts and made the drive up to Cranbrook, BC. As all good outdoorsmen should, they checked the weather forecast beforehand and noted that there was a 20% chance of light rain on the day they planned to hike. Everything seemed to be lining up for a successful attempt. This time, they made the drive into the old logging roads which accessed the trailhead and spent the night at an old horse camp in the area.
The next morning, it was indeed raining, and the road was in rough shape. But Chamberlain and his friends figured they must be close to the trailhead, according to the directions and rudimentary map in “100 Hikes.” They set out hiking to find the trailhead and complete the hike. After six hours of hiking in the pouring rain, unable to even find the beginning of the trail they were after, they decided to give up. Afterward, Chamberlain wrote across the top of the Mortar-Pestle Lakes page in his “100 Hikes” book, “FORGET IT.” He figured the final hike would elude him forever.
One More Try
A few years passed. Chamberlain continued to hike all over the Inland Northwest and beyond, often with friends he met through the Spokane Mountaineers, logging his 500 miles every year. Among his frequent hiking companions were Diane Delanoy and her husband, Ken, active members of the Spokane Mountaineers. Ken had been among the group of hikers turned away in 2018 due to wildfire. So they knew about Chamberlain’s goal of completing all 100 hikes, and they knew just how challenging the final hike had proved to be. When Chamberlain approached Diane and Ken about making one more attempt at the Mortar and Pestle lakes hike in 2025, Diane sprung into action.
“I went onto Facebook and found a British Columbia hiking group and just kind of searched through their posts trying to find any mention of Mortar Lake,” Diane says. “I came up with one. This gal had been up there. So I contacted her, and she was able to send me the GPS tracking thing that got them to the trailhead.”
With the local knowledge and GPS data loaded onto Diane’s phone, Chamberlain set out this past September with the Delanoys and another friend, Denise Beardslee, for one final attempt. Following the GPS up the old logging roads, the group was able to successfully locate the trailhead. To their surprise, it was well-marked with signage and a logbook. They camped at the trailhead that night, excited to start up the trail the next morning. When they did, they realized Landers’ trail rating of “moderately difficult” felt like an understatement.
“Honestly, I thought it was the hardest hike I’ve ever done,” Diane says. “Even though it was less than five miles up and back, it is straight up the whole time. You just climb up, up, up, up, up till you get to a boulder field. And then you’ve got to get through that to the ridge, where we could see the two lakes.”
The group had planned to camp in the wilderness area another night, but after the grueling hike, they drove out and spent the night at a campground. There, they celebrated Chamberlain’s accomplishment as he checked off the final hike in his weathered copy of “100 Hikes.” As he did, Chamberlain made one edit to Landers’ description: he crossed out the word “moderately” so that the trail rating read, “difficult.”
Looking Ahead and Inspiring Others
Now that Chamberlain has completed all 100 hikes, he doesn’t have another major goal he’s looking to reach. “I’m still doing [the hikes],” he says. “I wouldn’t do them all [again], but there are a few I’d like to do again.”
Some trails he would like to return to include the Tucannon River-Diamond Peak Loop in the Blue Mountains (#82), and Lookout Mountain east of Priest Lake (#37). Apart from that, he plans to keep hitting that 500-mile-per-year goal for as long as he can.
And, of course, Chamberlain has a big milestone coming up next summer when he turns 90 years old. He doesn’t have a grand expedition planned, but says he might rent a local grange hall to celebrate with friends or maybe take a kayak trip through Priest Lake’s Thoroughfare.
For Chamberlain’s friends and hiking companions like Diane Delanoy, Chamberlain is a constant inspiration to continue getting outdoors and having adventures no matter your age. “He really does motivate me,” Delanoy says. “If there’s a backpack or a hike and my husband will say, do you want to go? It’s like, nah, I don’t know. But if Chamberlain’s going, I want to go. Because if he can do it, I can do it. Plus, he always brings the fun.”
As for Chamberlain’s advice to younger hikers? “Just keep going,” he says. “Do your yoga, do your daily exercises, walk every day. You never quit. You just can’t quit.”
Chris Maccini is a writer and audio producer based in Spokane. This winter, you can find him on the ski slopes and cross-country trails of Mount Spokane.
