Cover photo courtesy of Nelson Kootenay Lake Tourism
Fall on Kootenay Lake rewards anyone willing to pair two kinds of water: the cold, clear kind paddlers cross in the morning, and the hot mineral kind that unwinds the day’s effort by evening. Base a trip out of Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort, about 40 minutes north of Nelson, BC. Summer crowds on the lake thin out once fall hits, and a soak feels even better once the air cools.
Fall at Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort
The resort’s mineral-rich pools, fed by water that surfaces at 117 degrees before cooling for soaking, are the draw, but it’s the 108-degree horseshoe-shaped cave—a steamy tunnel guests wade through in near-total darkness—that visitors remember most, with windows above the pools framing the lake and the Purcell Mountains.
Book a room and access gets even better: overnight guests soak on their own schedule, 8 a.m.-9 p.m. and until 10 a.m. on the day of checkout. The resort runs six days a week (closed Tuesdays). Day visitors get the pools Wednesdays-Sundays, 10 a.m.-7:30 p.m. (last entry 6 p.m.), and Monday, 10 a.m.-3 p.m.
After a soak, the Ktunaxa Grill serves an Indigenous-inspired menu, and the on-site Spirit Water Spa offers massage, wraps and scrubs built around Ktunaxa botanicals; both keep similar Wednesday-through-Sunday hours. The resort is owned and operated by Yaqan Nukiy, the Lower Kootenay Band.
Fall Paddling on Kootenay Lake
That leaves 65 miles of fjord-like water nearly to yourself. The closest formal access is Balfour Public Boat Launch, an old wharf about 15 minutes south of Ainsworth. When wind picks up, paddlers prefer Kootenay Bay Boat Launch near the ferry terminal in the East Shore across the lake, which is often sheltered from the wind. From either launch, paddlers can hug the shoreline toward Ainsworth and Woodbury Resort or explore the coves around Balfour.
The village of Kaslo, 30 minutes north of Ainsworth, is another popular paddling spot on Kootenay Lake. Kaslo Bay Boat Launch, next to Kaslo Bay Park at the north edge of town, puts paddlers on a sheltered bay calmer than the open lake. It’s a good put-in for beginners or solo launchers and features epic scenery dominated by the Purcells rising across the water.
Kaslo Kayaking in town rents kayaks, canoes, paddleboards and locally built Hellman canoes and runs guided tours. In September, rentals and tours are by reservation only Fridays-Sundays. After a paddle, take a short hike on the nearby Kaslo River Trail, a 2-mile loop with covered bridges. Keep an eye out for brightly colored kokanee salmon spawning in the river in September and early October.
Paddling Safety Considerations
Kootenay Lake is deep, cold and prone to sudden wind, and fall temperatures can bring on cold-water shock even when the air feels mild. Wear a properly fitted PFD, dress for the water rather than the air temperature—a wetsuit or drysuit is smart by October—and check the wind and marine forecast before launching. Paddle close to shore, tell someone your route and return time, and watch for boat and ferry traffic near Balfour, home to the world’s longest free ferry ride. Days shorten fast this time of year, so plan to be off the water well before dusk.
Check current pool, dining and lodging details at Ainsworthhotsprings.com before planning your fall trip.
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